In the fall of 1988, a great friend, Dave Holle and I headed to the Pacific Northwest for what was to become the trip of a lifetime. Billed as a five-day Canadian Double Headed Steam Excursion, the plan was to spend five days on the train and four nights in high class accomodations. Throughout the trip, there would be two steam locmotives pulling this train. At least, that was the plan.

The route of this journey would take us from Vancouver, British Columbia, Eastward along the Fraser river and up to Kamloops, B.C., where we would spend our first night. The second leg of the journey takes us North to Jasper, Alberta, where we were to stay at Jasper Lake Lodge. From Jasper, we'd head back West to Prince George, B.C. where we'd spend our third night. We'd then head South on B.C. Rail to Exeter (100 mile house) and spend our fourth night. The fifth day would return us back to B.C. Rail's station in North Vancouver, B.C.

Motive power for the first three days was to be Canadian National's 6060, a Mountain Type (4-8-2), and B.C. Rail's Royal Hudson (4-6-4), #2860. In Prince George, the 6060 was to be exchanged with B.C. Rail's #3716, a Consolidation (2-8-0) that had been specially fitted out with an Elesco-style feedwater heater and stainless steel jacketing (to match the Royal Hudson) just for this trip.

The journey begins, like all great railway journeys, at the station. We're waiting to board this grandaddy of steam excursions in North America. As is all too typical, we leave Vancouver some 45 minutes behind schedule on a drab, chilly, rainy and foggy morning.

All was going well. People were starting to interact and get to know their traveling companions for the next five days. I took up residence (with a number of other people) in the vestibule of our car (17 cars back from the head end). These cars had Dutch doors, and we were able to open the top sections and take photographs of the train and the scenery more easily. About 45 minutes into the trip, one new found friend suggested that we walk forward and take some shots from closer to the head end. I, of course, agreed. We arrived between the baggage car and first coach. The baggage car was full of fans making video and audio tapes. We decided we could do as well from the first vestibule.

As we were riding along, I noticed that we didn't have tightlock couplers on the train (the buffer plates between the baggage car and coach weren't too tight...I could see right through to the couplers). I explained that this meant that if the train became derailed, it would be easier for the cars to uncouple, and the train would follow wherever the lead wheels took it. I was quickly sorry for having given the explanation. As I leaned out the vestibule "window" to take a photo, I felt a hard bump as the train crossed some type of special work. I later found out that we were crossing a switch that led to a siding on the South side of the main. My teeth started to rattle, and I shouted "GET OUT OF HERE...WE'RE ON THE GROUND!"

Indeed, we were derailed. The VIA crew opened the emergency valves in the car, setting the brakes hard on the train. The engineer of the Mountain (6060) kept pulling, even though the Hudson (2860) had shut off. I believe that it was fortunate that he did that, because he kept the slack stretched which kept the car fairly well in alignment with the tracks. The sequence of events went something like this:

• The train enters Chilliwack, B.C. doing about 42mph, Eastbound.
• Crossing the switch to the siding there, the steam (Barco) fitting on the baggage car is too low, and "picks" the switch point.
• The switch rips the steam fitting off of the baggage car, and it bounces under the lead truck (wheels) of the first coach, derailing it.
• The wheelset on the coach bounces to the South side of the railroad (one wheel outside the rails, the other between the rails).
• The VIA crew puts the train into emergency (braking).
• The train is dragged to the trailing point switch at the East end of the siding, and the derailed wheels move from the South side of the track to the North side of the track.
• The train and derailed car cross a grade crossing (which is quite an interesting ride when you're IN the derailed car).
• The train comes to a stop some 800 yards after the initial derailment.

In the mean time, I'd walked back to "my" coach, and Dave asked if something was wrong...they'd seen people heading for the ditches and ballast flying. That combined with the rather hard stop gave them all a clue. I took the photo you see here, after the derailment in Chilliwack as the train is being rejoined (and after I'd regained some of my composure). It's not an experience that I wish to relive.

The derailment precluded our arriving in Kamloops anywhere near on-time, and we went through "Hell's Gate" along the Fraser at night. We did get a decent nights' sleep in Kamloops and headed for the train station in dense fog at 7:30 the next morning. We found our train, but there were no locomotives coupled to it. After asking a few questions, we found that the railroad had put the locos on a stub siding near the yardmaster's office. This would allow the hostlers (the men watching over the fire and boilers) to spend most of a chilly night inside, near the locomotives. Unfortunately, that stub siding (meaning it has only one switch...entrance or egress from the siding can only be done in that direction) was in serious need of some track maintenance. Each of these heavy locomotives had two tenders behind, the first carried 6000 gallons of Bunker-C (a tar-like oil that's used for fuel in oil-burning steam locomotives) and 22,000 gallons of water. The second carried an additional load of water. So here's the picture...the 6060 is first in, followed by its two tenders, then the 2860 with its pair of tenders. When they were placed, the tenders were low on fuel and water, after having run hard all day long. When the tenders were filled, the lack of maintenance became evident, as the rails spread and the rear tender of 6060 along with the pilot (first wheels under the front of a locomotive) and first driver of the 2860 were sitting on the ties...er...mud.

The only thing to do was to jack up the Royal Hudson (2860), and, in essence, rebuild railroad under her. Because this was a stub siding, both engines had to be backed over this poor trackage, which meant the ties and railroad had to be made usable. The first photo here is of 2860 returning to her train in Kamloops after having been rerailed. We also see the Mountain, 6060, in Kamloops with the morning sun cutting through the fog.

This little fiasco created a five hour delay (five hours during which many of us would have enjoyed some extra sleep). Well, it's steam, and it's vacation, and it's exciting...so why worry? We didn't. We sat back, enjoyed our tray-table breakfast and lunch (which were quite good), and enjoyed some of the fantastic scenery along the way to Jasper.

Because we were running late, the crews ran the engines hard, with speeds approaching 70 or 75 MPH. These locomotives, being oil burners, have pans under the firebox that tend to get, shall we say, quite warm. On these large locomotives, the fireboxes extend over the wheel bearings, which was no big deal in the days of steam operations. Today, however, the railroad has installed infra-red "hotbox" detectors; sensors along the right-of-way that can detect the temperature of the wheel bearings as they pass overhead. Of course, these hot pans tend to trip these sensors, and the radio reports hot boxes on the train more than once. Each time such a report comes in, the train must stop and check just to be sure that there isn't really a hot bearing. A hot bearing can actually get so hot that the axle can be sheared in two, causing a nasty derailment...something noone wanted to have happen. (Heck, we'd had our share of "fun" with derailments already!) These additional, unplanned stops added to our delay, making us later yet.

All along the route, enthusiastic Canadians were waiting to greet the train. Remember, we're over 5 hours late, and they still waited in the chill air. This train was an event. At waterstops along the route, crowds of spectators gathered, some speaches were made, and locals provided refreshments for passengers. Most of this extra "entertainment" was unplanned, adding yet more time onto our journey.

We finally arrived in Jasper at about 2:30 ...in the morning. We were all more than a little sleepy, and some of the elderly passengers were really quite fatigued. Busses took us to Jasper Lake Lodge, a beautiful place. Too bad we really didn't have any time to enjoy it. The agency that planned and arranged the whole trip was feeling badly about the scheduling (even though none of the problems were their fault...stuff just happens), so they suggested that we all order room service breakfast. Dave and I were happy to do so, ordering eggs Benedict...perhaps the best I've ever had. Breakfast was delivered to the room by a waiter on a bicycle, who exhibited some really good balance holding the heavy tray on one hand while riding the bike. It's now about 7am on the third day of our journey.

After all that sleep (NOT!), most of the passengers were getting a little impatient and cranky. This really was aggrevated when we all arrived at the Jasper train station for our scheduled 7:30 departure. Again, there was our train, but no locomotvies. At least the weather was better. Remember that I said this was an event? Arriving at 2:30 in the morning didn't give the local press any chance to get photographs of the locomotives or the train as it entered town. They were now doing so, while we waited. The engines were across the yard being exhibited on the turntable. Since there was nothing much to do, I photographed CN nuber 6015, a display locomotive there at the station. Soon, there was activity, and the locomotives moved towards the train. We were then informed that this would be a "show" coupling, as the hard work (and probably improper lubrication) took its toll on the recently rebuilt 6060 by ovaling a wrist pin. The wrist pin connects the main driving rod with the driving piston crosshead. It takes a lot of force, as the main rod connects the drivers with the piston at this point. This meant that the engine was out of service, and we'd have to rely on only the 2860 to get us to Prince George. We were assured that this would be no problem, as the terrain was relatively flat.

So by now, I know you're sitting there thinking: "What could possibly happen next that's not already happened?" With steam railroading, there are probably infinite possibilities. Remember those hotbox detectors? Well, one tripped alerting the crew to a potential problem. Being a good crew, they stopped and checked, figuring this was just another false alarm. No such luck. The main driving box on the engineer's side of the locomotive had overheated. The fact that it was a main driving box made life just that much more difficult. The drivers, you see, are lubricated by blocks of hard grease that are mounted under the driving axles, and forced upward by spring pressure. The grease is pushed through a perforated piece of steel that's curved to the radius of the axle. As it happened, the grease in question was a new formulation, and it turned out to be a bit softer than desired. The entire grease block had been melted out from under the main driver. Of course, being the main driver meant that there was even less room to get under the engine than would be the case with any of the other drivers. So here's what had to happen:

• We wait for the axle to cool, so that crews could touch it without being severely burned.
• A crew member crawled between the drivers and under the engine. He then released the retainers that hold the grease cellar, block, and screen in place.
• The cellar and screen are handed out to another crew member.
• A fresh block of grease is brought forward and carved to fit in the cellar. The top is carved to the radius of the screen.
• The assembly of cellar, grease, and screen are handed back to the crew member under the locomotive who replaces them and fastens the retainers.
• The train proceeds at restricted speed for one half mile, after which another inspection is made.
• Following that initial inspection, a longer run is made at reduced speed, and another inspection made.
• Assured that all is now well, the train resumes normal operation.

So, another couple of hours delay. You'll perhaps note that, even though we're in the third day of a steam excursion, we have yet to have a stop for a photo runby! The crews decide to do one before being linched by the passengers, but by now, it's early evening, and the sun is setting. Only marginal photographs are the result for many. The train continues on in darkness to Prince George, arriving again in the small hours of the morning.

It's the morning of day four. Drowsy passengers board the train for another scheduled 7:30 departure wondering just what might happen today, and expecting delays at the outset; fears fueled by indications that B.C. Rail's Consolodation, number 3716 had hot boxes on the tender and a broken arm on the mechanical lubricator on its way from North Vancouver to Prince George. The sun is shining, and people, despite everything, are looking forward to a nice day. It'll be interesting to see how B.C. Rail handles the train.

Spirits are lifted high when, at 7:30am sharp, there is the double report of a shrill steam whistle...we're under way and on time! As we reach the old wooden, fully enclosed water tank at Lone Butte, we're informed that there will be a photo runby. People pour off the train and position themselves for this first decent opportunity to shoot the trains. After the first pass, everyone cheers and claps...it's quite a show! The conductor shouts "Did you like that?" Amid more cat calls, clapping and cheers, he announces to the crew "Back it up, we're gonna do another one!." We just can't believe our good fortune. The 3716 and 2860 make a beautiful stainless-steel-clad pair, the 3716 somewhat dwarfed by 2860. The sound of the two exhausts make evident the different driver diameters of the two locomotives... the Consolidation (3716) has smaller drivers, and more frequent, sharp exhausts. The 2860 has softer, yet business-like exhausts at a more lesiurly pace.

The conversation and attitudes on the train are more lively now. Everyone's gotten a real lift from the runby and good weather. All is not perfect, however, and the previously damaged mechanical lubricator actuator arm breaks again. At a watering stop, some minor repairs are made, but a crew member decides that he'll ride the walkway and actuate the lubricator manually until it can be fixed at Exeter that night. We arrive, somewhat late of schedule, but still in the evening of the same day, at 100 Mile House (Exeter), and enjoy a good night's sleep.

On the last day, the train heads through some varied territory. Just North of Lillooet (first division point on B.C. Rail), and along the North Fraser River, is some rather arid and rugged terrain. There's a long downgrade, and the train drifts into Lillooet trailing brake smoke. Some passengers who have connections in Vancouver are offered the opportunity to take B.C. Rail's Caribou Liners (these are well maintained Budd Rail Diesel Cars) from Lillooet to North Vancouver, as that train will arrive well ahead of the steam excursion.

South of Lillooet, as we pass Seton Lake and Lake Anderson, we have our last photo runby, as twilight is rapidly approaching.
The two steam locomotives seem right at home along these lakes and in this rugged territory.

As we get to Pemberton, rain begins to fall. There's 20 miles of 2.2 percent uphill grade out of Pemberton, quite a pull for the two steam locomotives. The crew had been going easy on the Royal Hudson, 2860, because of the problems with the hard grease experienced en route to Prince George. As the train leaves Pemberton, we hear the 3716 dig in with deep, hard, rhythmic blasts from her stack. The Hudson, however, has trouble getting a grip on the wet rail and only holds for about 2 or 3 blasts before taking off on a running slip. The engineer backs off the throttle, then digs in again, and again the engine slips. All the while, the little freight engine keeps digging in. The train slowed to a crawl, and B.C. Rail had a diesel waiting in case it was needed, but the 3716 saved the day as the train crested the grade and slowly accelerated Southward.

We arrive in North Vancouver about midnight, perhaps a bit past. The trip is over, but the memories are just beginning. It seems like only yesterday we were on the South side of the Fraser boarding this same train for what turned into a once in a lifetime journey. Some, I'm sure, were happy that the journey had ended. Many people, who weren't rail fans when they boarded, were when they left. All of us had our lives touched by the experiences, many for the better. As for me, well, I'd do it all again in an instant!